The Italian way, the French way and my way


Americans say 'ta-may-toe', the English, 'toh-mah-toe' – and I always say a couple of ladles of tomato sauce are key to a good bolognese. I also always say bolognese, not bolognaise. That's because my mother's Italian, not French.

What's your beef?

A lot of Italians, my mother included, make their bolognese from a mix of meats: half beef, half pork, or half beef, half lamb, for example. You can even use a combination of veal and pork, which makes the dish richer and the flavour more varied. Sometimes, I like to keep it simple and just use beef on its own. Maybe I'll throw in some pancetta cubes, or some chopped bacon. Maybe I won't. The only rules are your own. 

Spice it up! 

Herbs and spices are like a chef's signature. They are what will make your dish unique. I personally like to use nutmeg or cinnamon to give my bolognese an original twist. But you could use chilli paste. Or a mixture of honey, paprika and oregano to give it a subtle, smoky edge. In Leeds, where I grew up, some mothers make a very British variation with Worcestershire Sauce.

Chop and change

Bolognese benefits most from liberal helpings of vegetables. There's no limit to what you can add: sun-dried tomatoes, mushrooms, courgettes, kidney beans. My dear mother used to chop the vegetables finely to release more flavour and would really work in the beef to make sure it was all broken down. Nobody wants a lumpy bolognese now, do they? 

Whatever you add, remember, always be generous. Always allow time for a long, slow cook. And always try to make it in advance as this will intensify the flavours.