From shank to leg to saddle – how to cook
Saddle and rump
Here I’ve got the rump and the bottom of the saddle as one. You will often find them in two separate joints. The saddle can be simply stuffed with fresh herbs, tied, then roasted. Often the rump is boned – that’s the way you see it in restaurants.
Shank
It’s not expensive but it’s good meat, when cooked properly. The best braising cut, it needs slow cooking to make it tender. As the fat renders into the braising liquid, it will add flavour to your sauces. I see it a lot in restaurants but often it’s either not cooked long enough or is cooked too quickly. Gently braised at 60º for several hours, ideally overnight, until the meat drops naturally away from the bone. Shank should be supple and moist meat.
Leg
The best way to cook it, let’s be honest, is simply roasted and splashed with its natural juices and some mint sauce. It’s also good with mustard ‘à la dijonnaise’ or, if you’re feeling adventurous, braised with olives and tomato Provençal-style.
Breast
One of my favourite cuts but one you rarely see. It’s underrated, as pork belly was until recently. I’m shocked more people don’t use it actually. Rolled, tied and roasted very, very slowly, all the fat melts and keeps the meat moist.
Shoulder
Whenever possible you should roast or braise it on the bone for extra flavour. Shoulder’s fantastic. It’s got nice fat content, and where there’s fat, there’s flavour. Plan ahead and braise it slowly at 60ºC for 24 hours. You’ll never try such tender meat.
